Guides by Amelia
Zhenski Pazar: My Guide to Sofia's Women's Market
Sofia's oldest open-air market for fruit, cheese, honey and spices: what I buy, when I go and what sits nearby.
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Where to Stay in Sofia: The Best Areas and the Hotels I'd Book
Which part of Sofia to sleep in, which parts to skip, and the hotels I'd book in each one.
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Vitosha Mountain: How I Get Up There and Where I Go
Sofia's own mountain, 2,290 metres high and one city bus away, and how I spend a day up there.
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Vitosha Boulevard, Sofia: My Walk from St Nedelya to NDK
Sofia's main street, walked the way I walk it: what's on it, what's a minute off it and where I eat.
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Veliko Tarnovo: My Favourite Things to Do in Bulgaria's Old Capital
Bulgaria's medieval capital on the Yantra: Tsarevets, Trapezitsa, the craft street, Arbanasi and my one-night plan.
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Vegan and Vegetarian Sofia: Where I Eat and What to Order
Where I eat vegan and vegetarian in Sofia, the meat-free Bulgarian dishes to order and the one menu word vegans need.
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Unique Things to Do in Sofia: 12 Off-the-Beaten-Path Picks
The odd side of Sofia I show friends after the big sights: a saint's crypt, peace bells, bronze lions, a candlelit bar.
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Trains in Bulgaria: Routes, Fares and Tickets from Sofia
Bulgaria by rail from Sofia: the routes I take, real BDZ fares, night trains, tickets and when I catch the bus.
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Tipping in Bulgaria: How Much to Leave
About 10% at the table, the coins at the bar: how I tip in Sofia, from restaurants and taxis to hotels and hairdressers.
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11 Best Things to Do in Sofia: My Personal Favourites
The best sights in Sofia sit close together and most are free. My 11 favourites, with prices, hours and a weekend plan.
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Taxis in Sofia: Fares, Apps and How to Avoid Rip-Offs
Metered cabs in Sofia are cheap and easy to book. What a ride costs, the apps I use and the rip-offs to dodge.
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Swimming Pools in Sofia: Where I Swim in Summer and Winter
Where I swim in Sofia: the summer outdoor pools, the lap pools and the hot mineral pools just outside the city.
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Sofia Street Food: What I Eat on the Go and Where
Banitsa, mekitsa, pancakes and duner: the Sofia street food I eat, where to find it and what cheap eats cost.
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Street Art in Sofia: My Favourite Murals and Where to Find Them
My favourite Sofia murals in four walks you can do on your own, each one starting at a metro stop.
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Solo Female Travel in Bulgaria: My Guide From Sofia
Bulgaria suits a first solo trip. How I stay safe in Sofia, get home at night, meet people and do day trips alone.
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Sofia with Kids: My Favourite Things to Do with Children
Where I take children in Sofia and the ages each suits, from fossils and a 10-seat planetarium to boulders on Vitosha.
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My Perfect Weekend in Sofia: A 2-Day Plan with Costs
How I would spend 48 hours in Sofia: what to see, where to eat, the Saturday night out and what it all costs.
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Sofia Travel Tips: What I'd Tell You Before a First Trip to Bulgaria
What I tell friends before their first Sofia trip: visas, the euro, the airport metro, taxis and the head nod.
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Sofia to Veliko Tarnovo: Bus, Train or Car, and the One I Take
How I get from Sofia to Veliko Tarnovo: the coach times, the train change, the drive and why I stay a night.
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Sofia to Thessaloniki: The Coach, the Drive and Why There's No Train
How I get from Sofia to Thessaloniki: the 4h40 coach, the drive past Melnik and what happened to the train.
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Sofia to Skopje: The 5-Hour Coach, the Drive and the Border
How I get from Sofia to Skopje: the 5-hour coach, the drive via Kyustendil and the border at Gyueshevo.
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Sofia to Istanbul by Night Train, Bus, Plane or Car
How I get from Sofia to Istanbul: the night sleeper, the 8-hour coach, flights and the drive, with euro fares.
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Sofia to Bucharest by Day Train, Coach, Plane or Car
How I get from Sofia to Bucharest: the day train via Ruse, the 6.5-hour coach, a direct flight and the drive.
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Sofia to Belgrade: The Coach, the Nis Route and the Drive
How I get from Sofia to Belgrade: the 6-hour coach, the bus and train via Nis, and the border at Kalotina.
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Sofia Synagogue: Visiting Europe's Third-Largest Synagogue
Europe's third-largest synagogue sits behind Sofia's market hall. Hours, tickets, the 1943 story and what is nearby.
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Sofia Prices in 2026: What Things Cost
Sofia is cheap by UK standards, though hotel rooms close the gap. Pints, meals, metro rides and a weekend, in euros.
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Sofia on a Budget: How I'd Do Sofia Cheaply in 2026
Free sights, €6 set lunches and €2 travel days: how I do Sofia cheaply, with three days costed line by line.
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Sofia Nightlife: Where I Go Out and Where to Start
Sofia goes out late and cheaply. The areas, bars and clubs I pick, what a night costs and how to get home after.
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Central Mineral Baths in Sofia: the Hot Springs and the Museum
Sofia's old bath house is a museum now, but the hot springs still run free outside. What to see and where to soak.
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Sofia Metro: Lines, Fares, Hours and the Stops I Use
How I ride the Sofia metro: the four lines, the €0.80 tap-in fare, train times and the stops nearest the sights.
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My Sofia Itinerary: How I'd Spend 3, 4 or 5 Days
How I'd spend 3, 4 or 5 days in Sofia: one area a day, two day trips by bus or train, and what each day costs.
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Sofia in Winter: Snow, Christmas Markets and Where I Warm Up
Sofia from December to February: the cold, the snow, the markets and the warm corners I head for.
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Sofia Food Guide: What to Eat and Where
Banitsa, shopska and rakia: what to eat in Sofia, the places I eat it, and what a meal costs in euros.
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Sofia Airport to the City Centre: Metro, Bus and Taxi
How I get from Sofia Airport into town: the metro, bus 84, the night bus and a fair taxi fare, with times and prices.
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Shopping in Sofia: Where I Shop and What I Buy
Where I shop in Sofia, from the big brands on Vitoshka to icons, embroidery, market honey and rose oil.
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Seven Rila Lakes from Sofia: Chairlift, Hike and Getting There
Seven glacial lakes, a chairlift and a 5-hour loop, 95 km from Sofia. How I get there myself, and when to go.
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Ancient Serdica in Sofia: Where to See the Roman Ruins
Roman Sofia sits around the metro station. My route round the Serdica ruins, what is free and what costs €3.
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St Sofia Basilica in Sofia: The Church That Named the City
The red-brick church that gave Sofia its name, with Roman tombs underneath. How I visit it and what it costs.
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The Russian Church in Sofia: My Guide to St Nicholas
Sofia's gold-domed Russian Church is free to visit. How I leave a wish note in its crypt, and what sits nearby.
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Rotunda of St George in Sofia: Frescoes, Ruins and How I'd Visit
Sofia's oldest building hides in a courtyard behind the Presidency. What to see inside and how I fit it in.
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Rila Monastery Day Trip from Sofia: Bus, Car and Timings
Bulgaria's biggest monastery is free to walk into and 2 hours from Sofia. How I get there myself, and what to see.
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Rakia: Bulgaria's Fruit Brandy, and How I Drink It in Sofia
Bulgaria's fruit brandy, from grape to quince: the types, how to sip it, and where I drink and buy it in Sofia.
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Plovdiv: My Favourite Things to Do in Bulgaria's Second City
Plovdiv's Roman theatre, painted Old Town and Kapana, with ticket prices, closing days and my two-day plan.
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Plovdiv Day Trip from Sofia: Bus, Train and My One-Day Route
Plovdiv by bus or train from Sofia, and the route I walk to fit the Old Town, the Roman theatre and Kapana into one day.
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Opera and Theatre in Sofia: A Night at the Opera or the National Theatre
Opera seats from €20, plays with English surtitles and a 1907 theatre: how I spend a night of culture in Sofia.
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National Palace of Culture (NDK): My Guide to Sofia's 1981 Giant
Sofia's 1981 palace of culture: what it is, what's on by month and how I fit its fountains into a weekend.
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National History Museum Sofia: Thracian Gold and How I'd Visit
Bulgaria's biggest museum, out in Boyana: the Thracian gold, each hall, tickets and how I pair it with Boyana Church.
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Museum of Socialist Art in Sofia: Lenins, the Red Star and How to Find It
Sofia's lawn of retired Lenins and the Party House red star, with 2026 prices, hours and how to find the gate.
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Money in Bulgaria: The Euro and Cards
Bulgaria swapped the lev for the euro in 2026. Cards, cash, ATMs and old leva, from a Brit who pays here daily.
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Melnik, Bulgaria: Wine Cellars, Sand Pyramids and Rozhen Monastery
Bulgaria's smallest town: wine cellars in the sandstone, the walk to Rozhen Monastery and how I get there from Sofia.
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Martenitsa and Baba Marta: What 1 March Means in Bulgaria
Red and white threads, a moody granny called March and a stork to watch for: the martenitsa, explained from Sofia.
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Shopping Malls in Sofia: The 6 I'd Actually Use
The Sofia malls I use, how to reach each one by metro or tram, when they close and which suits your trip.
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How to Make Friends in Sofia: 10 Ways to Meet People
Sofia's expat scene is small and friendly. My 10 ways to meet people here, for a weekend or a move, with costs.
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Luxury and 5-Star Hotels in Sofia: The 11 I'd Book
My favourite luxury and five-star hotels in Sofia, what each one sits next to and what a night costs.
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Live Music and Jazz in Sofia: Where I Go for a Gig
Jazz under NDK, rock gigs, folk bands with dinner and the Philharmonic: where I hear live music in Sofia.
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Kukeri and the Surva Festival: Masks, Bells and a Day in Pernik
Who the kukeri are, why they wear fur and bells, and how I see them at Surva in Pernik on a day trip from Sofia.
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Koprivshtitsa Day Trip from Sofia: Train, House Museums and My Route
Koprivshtitsa by train from Sofia: the minibus from the station, the house museums, the €10 ticket and my route.
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Is Sofia Safe? My Honest Take as a Brit Who Lives Here
Sofia is a safe, easy capital with a few rip-offs. Where I walk at night, the scams I dodge and who to call.
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Getting Around Sofia: Metro, Trams, Taxis and Tickets
How I get around Sofia on foot, by metro, tram and taxi, with the 2026 fares and the ticket I would buy for a weekend.
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Getting Around Bulgaria: Buses, Trains, Driving and Taxis
Buses, slow trains, hire cars and taxis: the one I take on each Bulgarian route, and what each one costs.
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Flights from the UK to Sofia: Airlines, Airports and Fares
Which airline flies to Sofia from which UK airport, how long it takes, the fares I saw and getting into town.
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Festivals and Holidays in Bulgaria
Masked kukeri in January, roses in June and Easter on 2 May: my month-by-month guide to the Bulgarian festival year.
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Easter in Bulgaria: Dates, Traditions and Easter Weekend in Sofia
Red eggs, kozunak and candles at midnight: Bulgarian Easter explained, with the dates and my Sofia weekend plan.
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12 Best Day Trips from Sofia (and How I Get There)
My 12 favourite trips out of Sofia by bus, train and hire car, and the ones that deserve a night away.
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Day Hikes near Sofia: My 8 Favourite Walks by Bus, Train or Car
Eight day hikes from Sofia, from Vitosha by city bus to Rila by car, and when the last bus comes down.
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Craft Beer in Sofia: My Favourite Bars and a Brewery Taproom
Sofia drinks lager, but two bars, a brewery taproom and a good shop do craft beer. What I order and what it costs.
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The Best Cocktail Bars in Sofia: My 10 Favourites
The best cocktails in Sofia hide in basements and side streets. My 10 favourite bars, two speakeasies and the prices.
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Christmas and New Year in Sofia: Markets, Customs and What's Open
Sofia's Christmas markets, the meatless Christmas Eve supper and New Year's Eve, plus what closes over the holidays.
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Cherni Vrah Hike: How I Climb Vitosha's 2,290-Metre Summit
How I climb the 2,290-metre top of Vitosha from Sofia on a city bus, and what waits for you at the summit.
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Chalga Clubs in Sofia: My Guide to a Pop-Folk Night Out
What chalga is, where to hear it in Sofia and how a pop-folk club night works, from the table to the taxi home.
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Central Market Hall in Sofia: What's Inside Halite Now
Sofia's 1911 covered market is now a Bulgarian food hall, a Roman basement and a stage. What to see and what to buy.
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Buzludzha Monument: My Guide to Bulgaria's Communist UFO
The abandoned 1981 saucer on Buzludzha Peak: what you can still see, the road up and my day with Shipka and Kazanlak.
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Bulgarian Yoghurt: What Makes It Special and Where to Eat It in Sofia
Thick, sharp and named after the country: what kiselo mlyako is, the dishes it goes into and where I eat it in Sofia.
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Bulgarian Wine: A Visitor's Guide to What to Order and Buy
Mavrud, Melnik and Misket: the Bulgarian wines I order in Sofia, what a bottle costs and how many to carry home.
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Bulgarian Wine Regions: All 5, and the Ones I Visit from Sofia
Danube to Struma: what each of Bulgaria's 5 wine regions grows, and which ones I reach from Sofia.
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Bulgarian Souvenirs Worth Buying, and Where I Find Them in Sofia
Rose oil, Troyan pottery, rakia and lyutenitsa: the Bulgarian souvenirs I buy in Sofia and how I get them home.
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Bulgarian Phrases for Travellers: The Words I Use Every Day in Sofia
Hello, thank you, cheers and the bill: the Bulgarian words I use every day in Sofia, and how to say each one.
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A Short History of Bulgaria (and Where to See It in Sofia)
Thracian gold to the euro: Bulgarian history era by era, and the Sofia sights where I see each chapter.
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Bulgarian Grape Varieties: The Local Grapes I Order in Sofia
Mavrud, Melnik, Gamza and Red Misket: the Bulgarian grapes I order, how they taste and where they grow.
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Bulgarian Food: The Dishes I Tell Every Visitor to Try
Salads, white cheese, yoghurt, grills and clay pots: the Bulgarian dishes I order, with the menu word for each.
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Bulgarian Folk Music and Dance: Where I Hear It in Sofia
Odd rhythms, goatskin bagpipes and the horo line: what Bulgarian folk music is and where I hear it live in Sofia.
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Bulgarian Etiquette: The Manners I'd Want You to Know
A nod that means no, slippers at the door and rakia you never down: the manners that make a Sofia trip easier.
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Bulgarian Drinks: What to Drink in Bulgaria and Where to Try It in Sofia
Rakia, wine, beer, boza and ayran: what Bulgaria drinks, how locals drink it and where I order each one in Sofia.
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Bulgarian Desserts: The Sweets I Eat in Sofia and Where to Find Them
Baklava, garash cake, tikvenik and yoghurt with honey: the Bulgarian sweets I order and where in Sofia I find them.
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Bulgarian Culture and Traditions: A Visitor's Guide
Nods that mean no, rakia sipped with salad and masked kukeri: the Bulgarian customs I'd want you to know before a trip.
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Bulgarian Crafts: Pottery, Embroidery and Where I See Them
Troyan pottery, red cross-stitch and Chiprovtsi carpets: the Bulgarian crafts I love and where I see them from Sofia.
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The Bulgarian Black Sea Coast: My Favourite Places, North to South
My favourite places on the Bulgarian coast, north to south, the beaches I pick and how I get there from Sofia.
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Bulgarian Beer: The Brands to Try and How to Order Them in Sofia
Bulgaria drinks pale lager by the half-litre. Here are the brands, what to ask for at the bar and what it costs.
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The Bulgarian Alphabet: How I Read Cyrillic in Sofia
All 30 letters of the Bulgarian alphabet, the six that fool English readers, and how I read Sofia signs with them.
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Bulgaria SIM Cards and eSIMs: Prices, Networks and Where to Buy
The eSIMs and prepaid SIMs I would buy in Bulgaria, what each one costs in euros, and when your UK roaming will do.
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What to Pack for Bulgaria: My Packing List for Every Season
What goes in my bag for Bulgaria, season by season: the plug, the paperwork, church clothes and mountain layers.
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My Bulgaria Itinerary: 7 Days by Bus and Train, or 10 by Car
How I'd see Bulgaria from Sofia in 7 days by bus and train or 10 by car, with every leg timed and the costs added up.
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Breakfast and Brunch in Sofia: My Favourite Places
Where I eat breakfast and brunch in Sofia, and the Bulgarian breakfast dishes worth ordering first.
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Boza and Ayran: Bulgaria's Breakfast Drinks, and Where I Buy Them
The two drinks Bulgarians have with banitsa: what boza and ayran taste like and where I buy them in Sofia.
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Boyana Church in Sofia: The Frescoes and How I'd Visit
A tiny UNESCO church at the foot of Vitosha, painted in 1259. What it costs, the rules and how I fit it in.
Read the guideBoutique Hotels in Sofia: 11 Small Hotels I'd Book
My 11 favourite small hotels in Sofia, what makes each one boutique, and what a night cost when I checked.
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Borovets: Bulgaria's Oldest Ski Resort, 70 km from Sofia
Bulgaria's oldest ski resort, 70 km from Sofia: how I get there, what a ski day costs and Musala in summer.
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Borisova Gradina: My Guide to Sofia's Oldest Park
Sofia's oldest park: what's where, the loop I walk from Orlov Most, and the season for boats, roses and skating.
Read the guideThe Best Wine Bars in Sofia: 8 Places I Go for Bulgarian Wine
The 8 Sofia wine bars I go to for Bulgarian wine, plus where to book a tasting and buy bottles to carry home.
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The Best Viewpoints in Sofia: 8 Places With a View
Where I go for the best view of Sofia, from the peaks of Vitosha to the hotel rooftops, and the hour to go.
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The Best Time to Visit Sofia, Month by Month
When I'd come to Sofia, season by season: the weather, the festivals, the cheap flights and the months I'd skip.
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The Best Rooftop Bars in Sofia: 6 Bars With a View
Where I go for a drink with a view in Sofia, plus sunset times, which rooftops open in winter and what to wear.
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The Best Restaurants in Sofia: 11 Places I Send Friends
The 11 Sofia restaurants I send friends to, from folk-music cellars to award-winning fine dining, and what to order.
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12 Best Places to Visit in Bulgaria: My Favourites for 2026
My 12 favourite places in Bulgaria beyond Sofia, ranked, with the time from Sofia and how I get to each one.
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The Best Parks in Sofia: My 8 Favourite Green Spaces
Where I go for lawns, lakes and shade in Sofia, from Borisova Gradina to South Park at sunset, and what each suits.
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The Best Museums in Sofia: My 9 Favourites and What They Cost
Nine Sofia museums I'd happily spend a morning in, what each costs in 2026, and the Thursday trick that cuts the bill.
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The Best Markets in Sofia: The 5 I Actually Shop At
Produce, antiques, a Saturday farmers' market and December's Christmas stalls: the Sofia markets I use and when to go.
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The Best Ice Cream in Sofia: My Gelato Shops and Benches
The gelato shops I buy from in Sofia, what a cup costs in euros and the benches where I eat it.
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The Best Hotels in Sofia: My 16 Picks at Every Budget
My 16 favourite hotels in Sofia at every budget, with the area, who each one suits and what a night cost.
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The Best Hostels in Sofia: My 7 Picks, From €5 a Night
The 7 hostels I would book in Sofia, social or quiet, with dorm and private prices and where each one sits.
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The Best Clubs in Sofia: 9 Places I Go Dancing
Where I go dancing in Sofia, sorted by music, plus what the door wants, when to arrive and how to get home.
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The Best Churches in Sofia: My 8 Favourites, Ranked
Sofia's churches run from a Roman rotunda to a gold-domed cathedral. My 8 favourites, the prices and my route.
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My 10 favourite Sofia cafes, from tiny specialty bars to a brunch spot, and what a coffee costs in euros.
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The Best Bulgarian Wines to Try: 12 Bottles I Buy in Sofia
Mavrud, Melnik, Rubin and Red Misket: the 12 Bulgarian bottles I buy in Sofia, and where I buy them.
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The Best Bars in Sofia: My 12 Favourite Places to Drink
Sofia drinks in old houses, courtyards and park bars. The 12 bars I pick, where they are and what to order.
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Where to Eat Banitsa in Sofia
Sofia's breakfast pastry: the bakeries I queue at, the fillings to try and how to order at the counter.
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Belogradchik Rocks and Fortress from Sofia: Tickets, Caves and My Two Days
Belogradchik from Sofia: the red rock towers, the €4 fortress, the caves nearby and why I always stay a night.
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Banya Bashi Mosque, Sofia: Visiting the City's Only Working Mosque
Sofia's one working mosque sits on its hot springs. When to go in, what to wear and what to see around it.
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Bansko, Bulgaria: Skiing, the Old Town and Summer in Pirin
Bulgaria's big ski town under the Pirin peaks: getting there from Sofia, the slopes, the old town and summer.
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My Balkans Itinerary from Sofia: 2 Weeks by Coach and Train
My two-week loop from Sofia through Thessaloniki, Skopje and Lake Ohrid, plus an eastern version by train to Istanbul.
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The Antiques Market at Alexander Nevsky: Sofia's Flea Market
Icons, Soviet badges, lace and old cameras outside the cathedral. What I buy, what's fake and how I haggle.
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Alexander Nevsky Cathedral in Sofia: My Guide to Visiting
Sofia's gold-domed cathedral is free and open every day. How I visit it, from the crypt icons to the market outside.
Read the guideThe guides are the site
Ten sections, from the cathedral to the last bar of the night.