
My Perfect Weekend in Sofia
Friday drinks on Vitosha Boulevard, the cathedral and the Roman streets on Saturday, a mountain on Sunday.
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Gold domes, Roman streets under the metro and a mountain at the end of the high street. Everything I'd tell a friend flying out for the weekend, from the airport run to the last rakia of the night.

How I would spend 48 hours in Sofia: what to see, where to eat, the Saturday night out and what it all costs.
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What I tell friends before their first Sofia trip: visas, the euro, the airport metro, taxis and the head nod.
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Which airline flies to Sofia from which UK airport, how long it takes, the fares I saw and getting into town.
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How I get from Sofia Airport into town: the metro, bus 84, the night bus and a fair taxi fare, with times and prices.
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Sofia is cheap by UK standards, though hotel rooms close the gap. Pints, meals, metro rides and a weekend, in euros.
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Sofia is a safe, easy capital with a few rip-offs. Where I walk at night, the scams I dodge and who to call.
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Bulgaria swapped the lev for the euro in 2026. Cards, cash, ATMs and old leva, from a Brit who pays here daily.
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How I'd spend 3, 4 or 5 days in Sofia: one area a day, two day trips by bus or train, and what each day costs.
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When I'd come to Sofia, season by season: the weather, the festivals, the cheap flights and the months I'd skip.
Read the guideSofia goes out late. Start with a drink on a terrace, meet people on the pub crawl, then pick your club, your chalga night or your jazz bar.

Sofia goes out late and cheaply. The areas, bars and clubs I pick, what a night costs and how to get home after.
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Sofia drinks in old houses, courtyards and park bars. The 12 bars I pick, where they are and what to order.
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The best cocktails in Sofia hide in basements and side streets. My 10 favourite bars, two speakeasies and the prices.
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Where I go dancing in Sofia, sorted by music, plus what the door wants, when to arrive and how to get home.
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What chalga is, where to hear it in Sofia and how a pop-folk club night works, from the table to the taxi home.
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Sofia's expat scene is small and friendly. My 10 ways to meet people here, for a weekend or a move, with costs.
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Jazz under NDK, rock gigs, folk bands with dinner and the Philharmonic: where I hear live music in Sofia.
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Where I go for a drink with a view in Sofia, plus sunset times, which rooftops open in winter and what to wear.
Read the guideRakia with the salad, Mavrud and Melnik reds, boza with your banitsa and a craft beer scene that keeps growing. Start with what's in the glass, then find the bar that pours it.
Fruit brandy, usually grape or plum, sipped slowly alongside a salad.
виноvinoReds and whites from local grapes you won't find on the shelf at home.
маврудmavrudBulgaria's own dark red grape, best known from around Plovdiv.
бираbiraLocal lagers like Zagorka and Kamenitza, and the craft brewers worth a stop.
бозаbozaA thick, sweet and sour fermented grain drink, traditionally had with banitsa.

Rakia, wine, beer, boza and ayran: what Bulgaria drinks, how locals drink it and where I order each one in Sofia.
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Where I go for a drink with a view in Sofia, plus sunset times, which rooftops open in winter and what to wear.
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Sofia drinks lager, but two bars, a brewery taproom and a good shop do craft beer. What I order and what it costs.
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Mavrud, Melnik, Rubin and Red Misket: the 12 Bulgarian bottles I buy in Sofia, and where I buy them.
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Mavrud, Melnik and Misket: the Bulgarian wines I order in Sofia, what a bottle costs and how many to carry home.
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Bulgaria's fruit brandy, from grape to quince: the types, how to sip it, and where I drink and buy it in Sofia.
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Sofia drinks in old houses, courtyards and park bars. The 12 bars I pick, where they are and what to order.
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The best cocktails in Sofia hide in basements and side streets. My 10 favourite bars, two speakeasies and the prices.
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Bulgaria drinks pale lager by the half-litre. Here are the brands, what to ask for at the bar and what it costs.
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Gold domes and Roman streets in the centre, hot springs you can drink from and a mountain at the end of the high street.

Sofia's gold-domed cathedral is free and open every day. How I visit it, from the crypt icons to the market outside.
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A tiny UNESCO church at the foot of Vitosha, painted in 1259. What it costs, the rules and how I fit it in.
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Sofia's main street, walked the way I walk it: what's on it, what's a minute off it and where I eat.
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Roman Sofia sits around the metro station. My route round the Serdica ruins, what is free and what costs €3.
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Sofia's old bath house is a museum now, but the hot springs still run free outside. What to see and where to soak.
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Sofia's lawn of retired Lenins and the Party House red star, with 2026 prices, hours and how to find the gate.
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Sofia's gold-domed Russian Church is free to visit. How I leave a wish note in its crypt, and what sits nearby.
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Sofia's 1981 palace of culture: what it is, what's on by month and how I fit its fountains into a weekend.
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The best sights in Sofia sit close together and most are free. My 11 favourites, with prices, hours and a weekend plan.
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Rila Monastery is about two hours away, Plovdiv a little further, and Vitosha starts at the edge of town.

Bulgaria's biggest monastery is free to walk into and 2 hours from Sofia. How I get there myself, and what to see.
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Plovdiv by bus or train from Sofia, and the route I walk to fit the Old Town, the Roman theatre and Kapana into one day.
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Seven glacial lakes, a chairlift and a 5-hour loop, 95 km from Sofia. How I get there myself, and when to go.
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Koprivshtitsa by train from Sofia: the minibus from the station, the house museums, the €10 ticket and my route.
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Sofia's own mountain, 2,290 metres high and one city bus away, and how I spend a day up there.
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Belogradchik from Sofia: the red rock towers, the €4 fortress, the caves nearby and why I always stay a night.
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Bulgaria's smallest town: wine cellars in the sandstone, the walk to Rozhen Monastery and how I get there from Sofia.
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My 12 favourite trips out of Sofia by bus, train and hire car, and the ones that deserve a night away.
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The abandoned 1981 saucer on Buzludzha Peak: what you can still see, the road up and my day with Shipka and Kazanlak.
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Banitsa for breakfast, shopska salad with everything and grilled kebapche at a mehana.

Salads, white cheese, yoghurt, grills and clay pots: the Bulgarian dishes I order, with the menu word for each.
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Sofia's breakfast pastry: the bakeries I queue at, the fillings to try and how to order at the counter.
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The 11 Sofia restaurants I send friends to, from folk-music cellars to award-winning fine dining, and what to order.
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Where I eat breakfast and brunch in Sofia, and the Bulgarian breakfast dishes worth ordering first.
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Sofia's 1911 covered market is now a Bulgarian food hall, a Roman basement and a stage. What to see and what to buy.
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Thick, sharp and named after the country: what kiselo mlyako is, the dishes it goes into and where I eat it in Sofia.
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Banitsa, shopska and rakia: what to eat in Sofia, the places I eat it, and what a meal costs in euros.
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Banitsa, mekitsa, pancakes and duner: the Sofia street food I eat, where to find it and what cheap eats cost.
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Where I eat vegan and vegetarian in Sofia, the meat-free Bulgarian dishes to order and the one menu word vegans need.
Read the guideThe centre for walking everywhere, Oborishte for leafy streets and cafes, Lozenets for quieter nights. Pick the area first, then the bed.

My 16 favourite hotels in Sofia at every budget, with the area, who each one suits and what a night cost.
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Which part of Sofia to sleep in, which parts to skip, and the hotels I'd book in each one.
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The 7 hostels I would book in Sofia, social or quiet, with dorm and private prices and where each one sits.
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My favourite luxury and five-star hotels in Sofia, what each one sits next to and what a night costs.
Read the guideMy 11 favourite small hotels in Sofia, what makes each one boutique, and what a night cost when I checked.
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